Quick Answer

A basic single-door RFID key fob system requires five components: an RFID controller, an RFID reader, a magnetic lock or electric strike, a 12V power supply, and 125kHz fobs. An all-in-one kit from Amazon costs $60–$100 and most non-electricians can install it in 2–3 hours. The controller stores 100–2,000 fob IDs which you program by presenting each fob to the reader.

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⭐ Recommended RFID Kits

  1. Best all-in-one kit: AGPTEK RFID Door Access Kit — Mag lock, reader, 10 fobs (~$75)
  2. Best fob bulk pack: ETEKJOY 125kHz RFID Fobs 100-Pack (~$25)

What You Need — Components Explained

ComponentWhat It DoesCost (Basic)
RFID ControllerStores authorised fob IDs, controls the lock output$30–$80
RFID ReaderReads fob signal and sends ID to controller$15–$40
Magnetic Lock (Maglock)Holds door closed electromagnetically (600–1200lb hold)$30–$60
Electric StrikeAlternative to maglock — fits in door frame like a standard strike plate$25–$50
12V DC Power SupplyPowers the controller, reader, and lock$15–$25
Exit Button (REX)Allows egress from inside without a fob (required for safety)$5–$15
125kHz RFID FobsEach user's access credential$20–$30 per 100
💡 Maglock vs. Electric Strike: A magnetic lock holds the door closed when powered (fail-secure is wired to unlock on power loss; fail-safe unlocks on power loss — confirm your fire code requirements). An electric strike fits the existing door latch and looks more like a conventional lock — better for offices where appearance matters.

Step-by-Step Installation

1

Choose your components

For a first installation, buy an all-in-one kit — it guarantees compatibility between reader, controller, and lock. Kits like the AGPTEK include everything except extra fobs and mounting hardware. For 5+ doors, buy components separately from a dedicated access control brand (HID, Hikvision, ZKTeco).

2

Mount the RFID reader

Mount the reader on the wall outside the door at handle height (typically 900–1000mm from floor). Most readers use a surface-mount backplate with two screws. Route the Wiegand data cable through the wall to the controller location.

3

Install the lock

Magnetic lock: Mount the magnet plate to the top of the door frame and the armature plate to the top of the door. Both surfaces must be parallel and flush for maximum holding force. Electric strike: Remove the existing strike plate and replace it with the electric strike — same hole pattern in most cases.

4

Wire the system

Connect: Reader → Controller (Wiegand D0/D1 data wires + power). Controller → Lock (NC/NO relay output). Power Supply → Controller (12V/GND). Exit Button → Controller (REX input). Most standalone controllers include a clear wiring diagram on the inside of the casing.

5

Power up and test without fobs

Connect power. The lock should engage. Press the exit button — the lock should release for 2–5 seconds (the "unlock duration" is configurable on most controllers). If this works, your wiring is correct.

6

Program the fobs

Enter the controller's programming mode (usually by holding the programming button or entering a master PIN). Present each fob to the reader one at a time — the controller beeps to confirm each registration. Most standalone controllers support 100–2,000 fobs. Write the fob ID numbers in a register so you can delete specific fobs if lost.

7

Test and configure access schedules (optional)

Test each fob by presenting it to the reader. Most mid-range controllers support time zone schedules (e.g., fobs only valid Mon–Fri 8am–6pm). This is configured via the controller's keypad menu or companion software.

Frequently Asked Questions

What do I need for a basic RFID key fob door entry system?
RFID controller, RFID reader, magnetic lock or electric strike, 12V power supply, exit button, and 125kHz fobs. All-in-one kits are available for $60–$100 on Amazon.
How many fobs can an RFID controller store?
Entry-level: 100–500 fobs. Mid-range: 1,000–2,000. Enterprise (networked): unlimited. For most small offices or apartment buildings, a 500-user controller is sufficient.
What is the difference between a standalone controller and a networked access system?
Standalone: programmed locally, no PC/internet needed, ideal for 1–3 doors. Networked: managed via software, real-time access logs, better for 4+ doors or multi-site.
What happens if someone loses a fob?
Enter delete mode on the controller and present the fob (or enter its ID). If you don't have the fob, delete all fobs and re-register the ones you still have — keep a record of each fob's ID number when you set up the system.
Can I add a keypad for PIN entry?
Yes. Buy a combo reader/keypad unit (same Wiegand wiring, same controller). Users can then enter via fob, PIN, or both together for two-factor authentication.